WORTH VISITING:
An actual walk in the territory of the Vilna Big Ghetto of 1941-1943 and feeling of crowded narrow streets, where about 20 thousand Vilna Jews lived for about 2 years, open us up to the understanding historical reality of Vilna ghetto. Nowadays those are the streets of Ašmena, Dysna, Ligoninė, Mėsinių, Rūdninkų, Žemaitijos, Šiauliai and one part of Arkliai, Karmelitų, Lyda, and Pylimas streets. This web of small Oldtown streets was the only world for local Jews, who tried not only to survive, but also to save their history and culture. Through this mission, they aimed to resist inhuman Nazi regime – Paper Brigade, partisans in the ghetto, or Judenrat used different tactics but worked for the same cause.
BRIEF HISTORY:
Nazis, who occupied Lithuania in the summer of 1941, were quick to establish ghettos in a few local towns. The ghetto in Vilnius was established on the 6th of September in 1941 and divided into two parts – the Little ghetto in the historical Jewish quarter and the Big ghetto in the nearby Oldtown territory to the previous Jewish quarter. Until the Second World War, there were around 57 thousand Jews living in Vilnius, and all of them were forced in 1941 into this small territory of two ghettos. The Little ghetto existed only for a short period of two months and majority of its inhabitants were killed during this time. Those who survived the persecution were moved to the Big ghetto. On the 23rd of September in 1943 m. the Big ghetto was eliminated and those who could not escape from the ghetto were sent to concentration camps outside of Lithuania or murdered locally.
Although the majority of the ghetto prisoners were sent to compulsory work outside of the ghetto on a daily basis, the cultural life of some sort still existed inside the ghetto. Artists continued to paint and write, there was a secret ghetto orchestra, theatres in Yiddish and Hebrew, two choirs, schools, library, bookstore, museum and sport`s yard. Most parts of these initiatives were illegal and forbidden in the ghetto, but despite the danger, prisoners aimed to reimagine normal cultural life inside the abnormal reality of the ghetto.
CURRENT SITUATION:
Now there are many objects reminding us about the tragic history of Vilna Jews in the current territory of the previous Big Ghetto. We suggest You start Your tour from the place, where main gates of the Big Ghetto once stood – on the crossroads of Rūdninkų and Visų šventųjų (All Saints) streets. There is a memorial plaque on the building next to this place, and the plan of both ghettos, as well as some important buildings, are marked on this plaque. At the same Rūdninkų street, in a house no. 6, headquarters of Judenrat (Ghetto Council) were established. Until the Second World War, this building was home to the gymnasium of Vilna Jews. If You look down to the ground right before to the gate to this building You will see a Memorial
Stone to Icchokas Rudaševskis – a young boy, who lived and wrote his diary in the Big Ghetto. His diary is a unique document of daily life in Vilna Ghetto, it captures this trembling world from the child`s perspective.
The ghetto library and the Great ghetto theater in Yiddish were the most significant places for the cultural life raising the spirits of the distressed people. The great ghetto theater was on the Arkliai street, in the building of the current “Lėlė” (“Doll”) theater. Plays were performed in Yiddish and the halls were crowded by the audience, which aimed to forget the tragedy of their daily life. The ghetto library was also commonly visited and loved place – it was on M. Strashun street no. 6 (now – Žemaitijos street no. 4). Its red brick building is still extant and is in the process of restoration at the moment.
LOOKING AROUND:
Jewish street in Vilnius, 54.679532, 25.285090
The place of the Great Synagogue and shulhof (jid. shulhoyf) (Žydų g. 3), 54.679901, 25.284511
The mausoleum of Vilna Gaon and his family (Jewish cemetery, Sudervė road, 28), 54.712898, 25.234477
A sculpture of Vilna Gaon (Žydų g. 3), 54.680137, 25.285079
Choral synagogue Taharat ha–Kodesh (Pylimo g. 39), 54.676070, 25.281575
Užupis synagogue (Užupio g. 36), 54.681471, 25.298633
A sculpture of doctor Cemachas Šabadas (sculpt. Romualdas Kvintas), 54.677248, 25.284342
Pohulanka (now. J. Basanavičius street), 54.680145, 25.276134
The place of old Jewish cemetery in Šnipiškės (Olimpiečių g. 1a), 54.690243, 25.291117
Jewish cemetery in Užupis (Olandų g. 22), 54.688106, 25.307748
The printing house of widow Rom and Rom brothers (A. Strazdelio g. 3), 54.675534, 25.292128